Learn About the Art > About Indian Basketry > Glossary of Basketry Terms
Glossary of Basketry Terms
All definitions are provided courtesy of Matt Wood's AAIA, Inc.
For any questions about Native American basketry, feel free to contact us today!
We appraise - buy - consign - sell - restore & clean all Native American Indian baskets.
Awl:
A tool used in basket making used to punch a hole through materials through which weaving material is passed. Usually a hand made tool made of bone or metal with a handle, typically 4-6” in length.
Beading:
A strip of bark or a splint run in and out through spaces in woven basketry as a decorative technique; most often employed in Northwest Coast basketry.
Bundle:
A flexible, multiple foundation element of plant material used in coiled basketry. It may consist of loose fibers, a mass of stems or twigs, or rarely cordage.
Center:
The starting point of the basket; centers can be highly diagnostic.
Close coiling:
A variety of coiled basketry in which successive stages hide the foundation.
Close twining:
The form of twined basketry in which the weft rows are so tightly spaced as to conceal the warp.
Coiling:
A class of basketry sewing stationary horizontal elements with vertical moving stitches. Coiling spirals out from the center starting point.
Cradle:
Cradle board or baby carrier is typically a basketry form sometimes with a hide covering.
Crossed warp:
A type of basket work in which adjacent warps cross each other in a diamond pattern, held in that position by wefts, usually to give an open effect.
Diagonal Twining:
A type of twining in which the weft passes over two warps and under two, or three and three, four and four, etc. This can give a slightly diagonal effect to the surface of the basket and also resemble a masonry brick work pattern.
Direction of coil:
Clockwise and counter-clockwise, determined from the point of view of the work surface. (see Work Surface). Coil direction can be highly diagnostic.
Fag end:
The end of a stitch which is present on the work surface of a coiled basket. It is the beginning of the weft string and can be tucked into the foundation, clipped tight to the foundation, or folded under or tucked under stitches.
False Braid:
An ornamental finish on the rim of a a coiled basket produced by manipulating a single stitch in various figure eight patterns to produce a herringbone design.
False Embroidery:
A decorative technique on Northwest basketry where a third element, usually of a different color, is passed over and under the weft but is not imbedded into the warp. The material is usually placed horizontally to the weft and is like a ribbon o f color held in place by the weft.
Foundation:
A base in coiling around which the stitches pass. The most common foundations are: one rod, three rod and bundle. Foundations can be highly diagnostic.
Fret:
The Greek ornament occurring in endless variety on basketry.
Furcate:
Said of stitches in coiling, intentionally split---bifurcates.
Gap Stitch:
A variety of coiled basketry in which the stitches are not bound closely together, but rather are spaced to expose the foundation.
Imbrication:
Coiled basketry in which a strip of soft material is folded back and forth over the stitches, overlapping link shingles on a roof. Klikitat and Fraser River basketry are imbricated.
Interlocking Stitch:
A type of stitch in coiled basketry which basses diagonally through the top of the stitch immediately below. In so doing, it may pierce the foundation element of simply encircle it.
Lattice Weave:
Basket twining in which a frame of warps crossing at right angles is held together by wrapping the intersections with two twined wefts as in the Pomo Tee weaving.
Moving End:
The end of an exhausted stitch present on the non-work surface of a basket. The end of the weft string which is pushed through the basket. It either finishes as a visible stub, is folded under stitches, or is hidden in the bundle.
Non-interlocking stitches:
A type of stitch in coiled basketry which engages the foundation of the coil below without passing through another stitch. In so doing it may pierce the foundation of simply encircle it.
Non-work Surface:
The surface of a coiled basket upon which the sewing awl emerges. It can be detected by the slight tearing and splintering of stitches, in contrast to the relatively smooth work surface.
Open Twining:
A form of twined basketry in which the weft rows are spaced at intervals and regularly expose the warp.
Overlay:
A decorative technique employed usually in twined basketry in which the weft strands are covered by other elements, usually of another color. In half-twist overlay (such as seen in Northwest California basketry), the two decorative overlays stay to the outside of the two wefts showing only on the outside or work surface of the basket. With full-twist overlay, the decorative overlay twists to both sides, appearing inside and outside of the basket (Northeastern California). With both full and half twist overlay, four elements follow the course of the wefts, the two wefts being structural, and the two overlays being decorative.
Plain twining:
The simplest form of twining in white two wefts successively engage one warp at a time.
Plaiting:
Plaiting denotes a class of basketry in which all elements are active, usually equal in function, and which generally has neither what could be called a weft or a warp. Characteristic types are checker, twill, wicker and rarely hexagonal plaiting. In some terminologies, wicker, being a coarse form of plaiting, is treated as a separate class of basketry.
Rod:
A rigid or semi-rigid foundation element of coiled basketry used alone or in combination with other rods, bundles or welts.
Self-Rim:
The rim of a coiled basket sewn in the same technique as the rest of the basket.
Selvage:
The edge finish of twined, plaited or coiled basketry.
Splice:
Splice refers to the method of insertion of new warp, weft, and stitches during the construction process.
Split Stitch:
A type of stitch in coiled basketry which is bifurcated to receive a stitch from the coil immediately above it. Stitches may be regularly, that is intentionally, split on the work, nonwork, and bot surfaces. Accidental, that is unintentional, splitting may also occur on one or both surfaces due to carelessness.
Stitch:
The element that is sewn over the foundation in a coiled basket.
Stitch slant:
A term to denote the pitch or slat of the wefts and stitches in twined and coiled basketry. In coiled basketry, the stitch slant is usually opposite the direction of coiling; e.g. slant left, coils right.
Three-Strand Twine:
A three weft-strand technique in which two strands always pass to the outside, or work surface, and one strand to the inside. It is often employed as a base reinforcement, a rim finish, or simply for variety.
Twill plating:
A variety of plaited basketry, in which the weaving elements pass over each other in interval of two or more (2-2, 3-3, etc). Also called Twilling, Chevron, Herringbone.
Twining:
Twining denotes a class of basketry manufactured by passing moving (active) horizontal elements called wefts, around stationary (passive) vertical elements called warps.
Warp:
The stationary vertical element in twined basketry, or the horizontal in coiled work, which is engaged by the weft; Warps may be flexible or rigid.
Weft:
The moving horizontal element in twined basketry which engages the vertical rigid or somewhat flexible warps or the vertical moving element which coils around the horizontal warp in coiled basketry.
Welt:
A foundation element in coiled basketry used in conjunction with one or more rods. A welt is a small flattened stick, twig, or strip of fiber.
Wicker:
A term used to designate very rigid and often times very coarse plaiting. The term is also used by various authors to denote certain rigid forms of twining. Whole twigs are commonly employed in wickerwork.
Work surface:
The finish surface of a basket. In coiling, the side on which the sewing awl is inserted to make a path for the stitch. The work surface can be detected by the presence of indentations in the valleys between the coils made by the wedging action of the awl on the stitches which are still wet and pliable.
Wrapped Twining:
The northwest coast form of lattice weaving in which a single weft lashes together a frame of warps crossing at right angles by wrapping the intersections. Characteristic: Makah weave. The Tee weave of the Pomo is similar. (see lattice weave)
For any questions about Native American basketry, feel free to contact us today!
We appraise - buy - consign - sell - restore & clean all Native American Indian baskets.
Awl:
A tool used in basket making used to punch a hole through materials through which weaving material is passed. Usually a hand made tool made of bone or metal with a handle, typically 4-6” in length.
Beading:
A strip of bark or a splint run in and out through spaces in woven basketry as a decorative technique; most often employed in Northwest Coast basketry.
Bundle:
A flexible, multiple foundation element of plant material used in coiled basketry. It may consist of loose fibers, a mass of stems or twigs, or rarely cordage.
Center:
The starting point of the basket; centers can be highly diagnostic.
Close coiling:
A variety of coiled basketry in which successive stages hide the foundation.
Close twining:
The form of twined basketry in which the weft rows are so tightly spaced as to conceal the warp.
Coiling:
A class of basketry sewing stationary horizontal elements with vertical moving stitches. Coiling spirals out from the center starting point.
Cradle:
Cradle board or baby carrier is typically a basketry form sometimes with a hide covering.
Crossed warp:
A type of basket work in which adjacent warps cross each other in a diamond pattern, held in that position by wefts, usually to give an open effect.
Diagonal Twining:
A type of twining in which the weft passes over two warps and under two, or three and three, four and four, etc. This can give a slightly diagonal effect to the surface of the basket and also resemble a masonry brick work pattern.
Direction of coil:
Clockwise and counter-clockwise, determined from the point of view of the work surface. (see Work Surface). Coil direction can be highly diagnostic.
Fag end:
The end of a stitch which is present on the work surface of a coiled basket. It is the beginning of the weft string and can be tucked into the foundation, clipped tight to the foundation, or folded under or tucked under stitches.
False Braid:
An ornamental finish on the rim of a a coiled basket produced by manipulating a single stitch in various figure eight patterns to produce a herringbone design.
False Embroidery:
A decorative technique on Northwest basketry where a third element, usually of a different color, is passed over and under the weft but is not imbedded into the warp. The material is usually placed horizontally to the weft and is like a ribbon o f color held in place by the weft.
Foundation:
A base in coiling around which the stitches pass. The most common foundations are: one rod, three rod and bundle. Foundations can be highly diagnostic.
Fret:
The Greek ornament occurring in endless variety on basketry.
Furcate:
Said of stitches in coiling, intentionally split---bifurcates.
Gap Stitch:
A variety of coiled basketry in which the stitches are not bound closely together, but rather are spaced to expose the foundation.
Imbrication:
Coiled basketry in which a strip of soft material is folded back and forth over the stitches, overlapping link shingles on a roof. Klikitat and Fraser River basketry are imbricated.
Interlocking Stitch:
A type of stitch in coiled basketry which basses diagonally through the top of the stitch immediately below. In so doing, it may pierce the foundation element of simply encircle it.
Lattice Weave:
Basket twining in which a frame of warps crossing at right angles is held together by wrapping the intersections with two twined wefts as in the Pomo Tee weaving.
Moving End:
The end of an exhausted stitch present on the non-work surface of a basket. The end of the weft string which is pushed through the basket. It either finishes as a visible stub, is folded under stitches, or is hidden in the bundle.
Non-interlocking stitches:
A type of stitch in coiled basketry which engages the foundation of the coil below without passing through another stitch. In so doing it may pierce the foundation of simply encircle it.
Non-work Surface:
The surface of a coiled basket upon which the sewing awl emerges. It can be detected by the slight tearing and splintering of stitches, in contrast to the relatively smooth work surface.
Open Twining:
A form of twined basketry in which the weft rows are spaced at intervals and regularly expose the warp.
Overlay:
A decorative technique employed usually in twined basketry in which the weft strands are covered by other elements, usually of another color. In half-twist overlay (such as seen in Northwest California basketry), the two decorative overlays stay to the outside of the two wefts showing only on the outside or work surface of the basket. With full-twist overlay, the decorative overlay twists to both sides, appearing inside and outside of the basket (Northeastern California). With both full and half twist overlay, four elements follow the course of the wefts, the two wefts being structural, and the two overlays being decorative.
Plain twining:
The simplest form of twining in white two wefts successively engage one warp at a time.
Plaiting:
Plaiting denotes a class of basketry in which all elements are active, usually equal in function, and which generally has neither what could be called a weft or a warp. Characteristic types are checker, twill, wicker and rarely hexagonal plaiting. In some terminologies, wicker, being a coarse form of plaiting, is treated as a separate class of basketry.
Rod:
A rigid or semi-rigid foundation element of coiled basketry used alone or in combination with other rods, bundles or welts.
Self-Rim:
The rim of a coiled basket sewn in the same technique as the rest of the basket.
Selvage:
The edge finish of twined, plaited or coiled basketry.
Splice:
Splice refers to the method of insertion of new warp, weft, and stitches during the construction process.
Split Stitch:
A type of stitch in coiled basketry which is bifurcated to receive a stitch from the coil immediately above it. Stitches may be regularly, that is intentionally, split on the work, nonwork, and bot surfaces. Accidental, that is unintentional, splitting may also occur on one or both surfaces due to carelessness.
Stitch:
The element that is sewn over the foundation in a coiled basket.
Stitch slant:
A term to denote the pitch or slat of the wefts and stitches in twined and coiled basketry. In coiled basketry, the stitch slant is usually opposite the direction of coiling; e.g. slant left, coils right.
Three-Strand Twine:
A three weft-strand technique in which two strands always pass to the outside, or work surface, and one strand to the inside. It is often employed as a base reinforcement, a rim finish, or simply for variety.
Twill plating:
A variety of plaited basketry, in which the weaving elements pass over each other in interval of two or more (2-2, 3-3, etc). Also called Twilling, Chevron, Herringbone.
Twining:
Twining denotes a class of basketry manufactured by passing moving (active) horizontal elements called wefts, around stationary (passive) vertical elements called warps.
Warp:
The stationary vertical element in twined basketry, or the horizontal in coiled work, which is engaged by the weft; Warps may be flexible or rigid.
Weft:
The moving horizontal element in twined basketry which engages the vertical rigid or somewhat flexible warps or the vertical moving element which coils around the horizontal warp in coiled basketry.
Welt:
A foundation element in coiled basketry used in conjunction with one or more rods. A welt is a small flattened stick, twig, or strip of fiber.
Wicker:
A term used to designate very rigid and often times very coarse plaiting. The term is also used by various authors to denote certain rigid forms of twining. Whole twigs are commonly employed in wickerwork.
Work surface:
The finish surface of a basket. In coiling, the side on which the sewing awl is inserted to make a path for the stitch. The work surface can be detected by the presence of indentations in the valleys between the coils made by the wedging action of the awl on the stitches which are still wet and pliable.
Wrapped Twining:
The northwest coast form of lattice weaving in which a single weft lashes together a frame of warps crossing at right angles by wrapping the intersections. Characteristic: Makah weave. The Tee weave of the Pomo is similar. (see lattice weave)